All about Retinoids

All about Retinoids

A retinoid is a derivative of vitamin A and a key skincare ingredient that helps skin cells function properly. It increases cellular renewal and stimulates collagen and elastin production, making it perfect for treating a wide number of skin concerns, from sebum-regulating to helping repair sun damage. There are a number of different types of retinoids, a few common ones used in skin care are, in order of strength, tretinoin (prescription strength), retinal, retinol, and retinyl palmitate.


Pros
Retinoids strengthen the skin and reduce pigmentation, fine lines, and scars. They smooth texture, diminish blemishes and acne, unclog pores, and brighten the complexion. Their usage can also slow down the breakdown of collagen. Retinoids can benefit most skin types, but it is not one size fits all. It is important to find a form and strength that works for you. Consistent long-term use will lead to best results over strong formulations that you cannot use regularly. 

Cons

They can be harsh and sometimes result in dryness and increased redness. This can be minimized with correct usage. It takes time to see results, and, when treating blemished skin, it often results in initial ‘purging’; underlying acne will come to the surface more rapidly, so you can initially feel like it worsens the problem. Retinoids are photosensitizing, so if you are not good at using SPF daily, it's probably better not to use it at all. 


How to use Retinoids

  • Introduce slowly; always introduce one new product at a time and use it twice a week for a few weeks. If you have no irritation or redness, increase to 3-4. Avoid using any types of acid or exfoliation at the same time. 
  • Apply retinoid products to dry skin, and afterward, apply moisturizer and layer an oil or balm on top, especially for dryer skins and when the weather is colder.
  • If your skin is sensitive and has a lot of redness, or you have reacted badly in the past, try buffering, which means applying a layer of moisturizer before the retinoid. This will mitigate irritation.
  • Always use SPF in the daytime; adding a vitamin C or antioxidant product before will also boost the efficacy of retinoids.

If you do experience any irritation or dryness, discount the use of all active products. 

Options for different skin types and concerns:

Sensitive skin
HERBIVORE BOTANICALS Moon Fruit - Retinol Alternative Serum

Dry Skin
TATA HARPER Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil

Anti-aging and breakout 
PROF. DR. STEINKRAUS Vitamin A Serum
MZ SKIN Advanced Retinol Complex

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